How to wear boots with jeans without bunching

You sit down to pull on your boots, smooth your jeans and stand up. And there it is: a little mound of denim above the boot. To cut down on bunching, decide whether to tuck your jeans in, wear them over the boot or stop the hem near the top. Then see whether the cut of the jeans fits the width of the boot shaft. Pushing more fabric into a tight space rarely helps.

A few creases are normal when you walk or sit. Denim moves with your knees and ankles. The things to look out for are bulky folds, trapped hems and uncomfortable pressure. Start with two pairs of jeans and the same boots. Sometimes a slimmer leg is the only change you need.

Decide which part of the boot you want to show

Tall boots stand out when you tuck your jeans into them. With a wider leg, you can let the denim fall over the shaft and show mostly the foot of the boot. Choose the effect you want. Wide jeans stuffed into narrow boots can bunch up and keep riding higher as you walk.

Skinny jeans or leggings are a practical option if you want to tuck them into western boots. Wider jeans work well over the shaft. The same idea works with other styles: think about how much space the two pieces take up and how they feel when you move.

If you’re tucking jeans in, start with a slim leg

Try a close-fitting pair or one that tapers from calf to ankle. Smooth the denim down your leg and pull on the boot with the hem lying flat. If the jeans are long, avoid gathering all the excess around your ankle. See whether another pair ends in a better place before trying to fold several layers of fabric.

If you need a little fold, lay it flat and check that it doesn’t make a thick ridge. A smooth sock pulled over the hem can hold a small fold in place. Keep it loose enough to move comfortably. If it presses, pinches or restricts movement, try a different pairing.

The boot should fasten easily

Try the boots with the jeans and socks you’ll actually wear. A boot that fastens easily on a bare leg can feel tight over denim. If it has a zip, guide it carefully so it doesn’t catch the fabric. If it takes force, take the boot off and try a different combination. The zip shouldn’t have to squeeze the denim and your calf together.

Before buying anything, find where the fabric is bunching. At the ankle, the jeans may be too long. Behind the knee, the cut may be roomy there or the shaft may end at an awkward spot. Walk and sit, then check where the jeans settle. The front view in the mirror only tells you so much.

Straight-leg jeans and ankle boots: leave room around the top

Straight-leg jeans can sit over ankle boots. A shaft that fits fairly close at the ankle can reduce bulk underneath. Watch how the denim falls. If it keeps coming to rest on the opening, the hem or the shape of the boot may need a little more clearance.

Walk, sit and stand again without fixing the jeans straight away. Does the hem fall back into place, or do you have to pull it free each time? If it catches, try a wider hem or a boot with a slimmer shaft. A centimetre can make more difference than repeatedly smoothing the denim down.

Keep a turn-up light

A turn-up can clear the boot opening and tidy the hem. Fold once and check the thickness before you fold again. A heavily rolled edge can be stiff and bulky just where you wanted less fabric. If it takes several rolls to get the length right, consider having the jeans hemmed, especially if you wear the combination often.

A turn-up also changes what shows between the jeans and the boot. Let the sock peek out, choose a shade close to the denim or make it a small feature. Think about the weather and where you’ll walk. Bare ankles are optional, especially if there’s rain.

Let bootcut and wide-leg jeans hang freely

Bootcut jeans flare at the bottom. Tucking them in can hide the shape you picked them for. Let the denim fall over the boots and check the length with the heel or sole you’ll wear. A hem that brushes the ground will pick up water and dirt. If it catches at the back, see how it hangs as you walk before shortening it.

Under wide-leg jeans, the shaft can be almost invisible and still feel comfortable. Check that you can take a full step without treading on the hem. Look from the side and back as well as from the front. A neat front can hide a fold at the heel that needs constant adjusting.

When the length is the problem

If you often wear the same boots, take them with you when you have the jeans hemmed. Try on the trousers with the shoes, because sole height and toe shape affect the way the denim falls. Think about the other pairs you want to wear with those jeans before settling on the length.

Three quick tests with what you already own

Try the same boots with three pairs of jeans: slim, straight and wide. Keep everything else the same. Look at the ankle, the knee and where the denim meets the boot. If you take photos, use the same light and position to make the comparison easier.

Finally, sit for a few minutes and walk normally. Light creases go with moving around. A hard lump, a strained zip or jeans you have to keep tugging call for another pairing. Choose the one that’s still comfortable on the way to work, when you have better things to do than check the hem at every stop.